Beacon Kitchen Counter

“Smoky” kir royale

Lobster fritters, saffron, tarragon, sherry vinegar dip

Fennel amuse, herb butter, fleur de sel

Wild mushroom pizza, red onion, basil
Leffe Blonde Ale from Belgium

Roasted oysters, shallot mignonette, herbs

Seared scallop, butter-braised cabbage, Granny Smith apple, jalapeno
2005 Don David Sauvignon Blanc, Argentina

Hot smoked wild bass, fennel, lemon butter sauce, served in corn husks

Kabocha stuffed ravioli, capers, sage butter sauce, garlic

Roast squab, huckleberry conserve, salsify, brussels sprouts
2003 Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay

Roast marrow bone, garlic, fresh horseradish, toast points

Braised short ribs, foie gras, acorn squash puree, grits
Petit Verdot, Napa, California

Kobe beef, pickled chantrelle mushrooms

French fries with mustard sauce

Quince sorbet, verjus, grapefruit, butter cookies
2006 Gatti Piero, Brachetto, Italy

Chocolate souffle, smoked vanilla ice cream

For detailed critiques of each dish, click on my Flickr account on the sidebar at the right hand side of your screen.

Chef Waldy Malouf, formerly of The Four Seasons and The Rainbow Room is the executive chef and co-owner of Beacon. The gimmick here is cooking everything over an open fire: wood-roasted trout, spit-roasted duck with grilled scallions, roast suckling pig with grilled apples and bitter chocolate rub, even oysters. The house-baked breads are outstanding. Although Beacon is primarily a restaurant, it also has a full-service bar that features an exciting and adventurous cocktail list for the mixologists among us.

Chef Malouf’s newest venture is “Beacon Kitchen Counter”. Six seatings once a week in full view of the open kitchen. Guests are able to dine from a twelve-course tasting menu for the low price of $85 per person, not including tax and tip. Reservations are hard to come by as the restaurant is booked solid for the next few months. (I reserved for tonight’s dinner back in early November.)

Out of 10? Difficult to say based on one visit. Perhaps a moderate to high range 6. There were several items that I felt were not as original as other dishes I’ve had elsewhere, or needed work in terms of execution. Also, twelve courses spaced out over two to two and a half hours (including wine) is A LOT of food to take in one sitting. Most of it is quite rich, and were I not possessed of good genes, I could easily qualify for a coronary. This is not meant to dissuade you from going if you like to eat, as I do. It’s just meant to give you an honest idea of what to expect. Go for the experience, if not for the “wow” factor.

Beacon is located at 25 West 56th Street (5th Avenue) in midtown Manhattan.

Discussion on eGullet can be viewed here.

Simple Elegance

In classical Italian cuisine, osso buco (literally, “hole bone”) is a dish that hails from the city of Milan in northern Italy. It is traditionally made with veal shanks and braised in a sauce of white wine, aromatic vegetables and herbs, then paired with risotto alla milanese. Modern versions use a tomato-based sauce as the braising liquid and dispense with the risotto in place of polenta.

Shank meat has become increasingly popular in the restaurant world over the past few years. These cuts are relatively inexpensive but have a tremendous amount of flavor, and if cooked slowly in moist heat, become very tender. Shanks are also nearly impossible to screw up — well, unless you decide to take a nap halfway through cooking dinner.

I picked up some fresh pork shanks last week from the Greenmarket. You might know them better as uncured ham hocks.

Braised Pork Shanks with Creamy Polenta and Roasted Tomato-Garlic Chutney

For the shanks:

3 pork shanks, trimmed
kosher salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
olive oil
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery stalks, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
3-5 sprigs fresh thyme (or 2 t. dried)
3-5 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
1 cup Burgundy (or other red wine)
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
2 cups chicken stock

* * *

For the chutney:

olive oil
2 lbs. plum tomatoes, cored, peeled and seeded
8 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 t. allspice
1 T. dark brown sugar
kosher salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
1 T. white vermouth

* * *

For the polenta:

unsalted butter
1 onion, peeled and diced
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup polenta (yellow cornmeal)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmagianno-Reggiano cheese
kosher salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 300 F.

Season pork shanks generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Working in batches, brown the shanks on all sides, approximately 5-8 minutes. Transfer to a platter when done.

Pour off all but 3 T. fat from the pot. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, cloves and bay leaf and cook, stirring for 1-2 more minutes.

Return shanks to pot and add wine, vinegar and stock. The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the shanks. If not, add more wine or stock. Bring to a simmer and skim any film off the surface. Cover, place in the oven and cook until the pork is tender, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. To check for doneness, plunge a fork straight down into the meat and try to withdraw. If the fork slides right out, the meat is done; if not, give it more time.

* * *

To make the chutney: Combine all ingredients in a Pyrex baking dish, cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven beside the shanks. Cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. When done, let cool. Pour vegetables and liquid into a blender. Puree on high speed for 1-2 minutes. This keeps 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator, and is a great substitute for ketchup.

* * *

To make the polenta: Melt butter over medium-low heat. Saute onion until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add milk and stock and bring to a boil. Slowly add cornmeal in a steady stream, whisking constantly. Bring back to a simmer, whisking to break up any lumps and cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and creamy but not so thick that a wooden spoon stands up by itself, about 10-15 minutes. If the polenta is too thick, add more liquid but be careful not to add too much or the mixture will become soupy. Stir in the cheese and check seasoning.

Plan for one shank per person. Leftover polenta can be shaped into cakes and fried in butter.

Note: For this recipe, all measurements are approximate. I’m rarely this exact but I recognize that some people may not be as experienced in the kitchen.

Positive Outlook

Four years of being poz. November 2003 was when I was diagnosed and at the time, my only thought was “How long do I have to live?”

I still don’t know the answer to that question. I’m hoping it’s for a good long time. I haven’t had very many complications to deal with, apart from the occasional MRSA outbreak. Staph is no joke, people. It makes going to the gym a chancy scenario sometimes.

My numbers are quite good. My last test was 900 something T-cells with an undetectable vload and a total CD4 count of 36%. I’m due for a test soon and I’m hoping that it puts me near or over the 1000 mark. While these things are ephemeral, they do provide a psychological boost. I might be afflicted with a disease that has no cure but for the moment, all is right with the world.

Thank you all who have wished me well on this blog and elsewhere on the internet. Your support means a great deal to me. Some of you are friends who I have known for many years both online and in real life. Others are acquaintances who I hope to meet some day. I appreciate your kind words and look forward to getting to know you all in the years to come.

Here’s to a great 2008!

With that in mind, here was the year in pictures:

One shot of many. Unfortunately I was having computer problems last week and in a moment of stupidity, reverted my system back to a factory-mint condition. While some installed programs maintained their integrity, it meant that the thousands of photographs and videos on my system were wiped from memory. Oops.

Fava bean tortelli, fava beans, white asparagus, Gulf shrimp and tarragon.

Senator Charles Schumer (D-NY) at the Pride parade.

Seared hamachi, black radish, celery, Granny Smith apple.

Wonder Woman and Supergirl, 10 years together saved.

Interior of a greenhouse at Blue Hill Stone Barns.

Yes Shirley, that’s a miniature “burger” except that the “meat” is a slice of heirloom tomato sandwiched between two layers of pastry. Next to it is a shot glass filled with tomato “water”.

This picture needs no introduction.

Green beans, chives, nasturtium flowers, gazpacho viniagrette.

Food at the pass at Hearth. In the background are their famous Sunday meatballs.

A late October afternoon at Union Square Greenmarket.

This photo dedicated to T and C.

Atari_Age. Love those ears (and the rest of him).

Ignore the hobbit in the corner.

Catch of the Day

Ciuppin hails from the Liguria region of Italy, along the northwest coast. You might recognize it’s more famous American derivation, cioppino.

Ciuppin is typically served with a piece of grilled or toasted Italian bread, or pasta. Also, availability of fish on the market determines its contents. You can include shellfish if you like but I find the stew to be tastier without a million ingredients. Sometimes less is truly more.

Ciuppin

olive oil
onion, diced
garlic, thinly sliced
carrot, chopped
celery, chopped
white wine
cooked tomato sauce — see recipe in the post below
fish, cut into chunks
salt and pepper, to taste
Italian parsley or marjoram, chopped
Italian bread, toasted or grilled

Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottomed dutch oven. Saute vegetables until softened and light brown, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add white wine and tomato sauce. Bring to a boil. Add fish [and/or shellfish]. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for roughly 30 minutes.

Check seasoning. Stir in herbs. Ladle atop bread slices in each bowl and serve immediately.

I’ve left out proportions intentionally since I rarely use exact measurements. A good guide is 1 carrot and 2 celery stalks for each medium-sized onion and 4-5 cloves of garlic. Keep in mind that if you’ve made a batch of sugo di pomodoro, there will be garlic in the sauce as well.

Versatility

I made a batch of sugo di pomodoro tonight which will feature in a couple of dinners this week. There were a couple of ladlefuls left at the bottom of the saucepan so I used that as a base for tonight’s dinner.

The word gnocco refers to a shape more than a specific ingredient — what one would call a small dumpling in English. Most gnocchi are made from potato starch. However, occasionally you may come across gnocchi di farina gialla or gnocchi made from cornmeal. Best gnocchi is homemade but when you’re a hobbit coming home from a bear bar, store-bought will have to do.

Confidential to Kusala: I haven’t forgotten about your little meme. Don’t worry.

* * *

Sugo di pomodoro — Cooked tomato sauce

1 onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 extra-virgin olive oil
fresh thyme, chopped
1 can crushed tomatoes
salt, to taste

Heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic and thyme. Cook until light golden brown, about 7-9 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add tomatoes and juice, then bring to a boil. Lower heat to low and simmer, covered, for about 25-30 minutes or until sauce has thickened slightly to the consistency of hot oatmeal. Check seasoning.

Makes roughly 1 quart and keeps for up to a week in the refrigerator or six months in the freezer.

* * *

Gnocchi with spicy olive and tomato sauce

1 cup sugo di pomodoro
1/2 cup mixed olives, pitted and chopped
red pepper flakes, to taste
1 t. fresh tarragon, chopped
gnocchi

Combine tomato sauce and olives in a saucepan and simmer, covered, for about 10-15 minutes or until heated through. Check seasoning. Cook gnocchi; drain. Sauce gnocchi in the saucepan and sprinkle with the tarragon. Serve immediately.

Market Day

Clockwise from top left: delicata squash, een choy, pork shanks from Flying Pigs Farm, baby Russian Banana potatoes, parsnips, salted butter from Ronnybrook Farm and whole milk fresh ricotta.

It was too cold for me to take any pix, not to mention I didn’t get to the Greenmarket until late in the afternoon.

I have some more shopping to do tomorrow. Those pork shanks will be braised and served with polenta, along with a roasted tomato and garlic relish. Delicata squash will figure in a gratin or perhaps a bread pudding of some sort. Een choy is good for a stirfry or salad. I have some leftover FP bacon, so German potato salad might be in the works.

Note to potential boyfriends: If you haven’t guessed, food is important to me. Spamwise thinks microwaves are the spawn of the devil.

“Histories”, Part 3

After the Republic was abolished, the Thaecian Empire increasingly tolerated wizardry. Despite the reservations of the Imperial Legion and the antipathy of common soldiers, mercenary sorcerers were frequently deployed on the frontiers, and proved invaluable in campaigns on Naranduil and Aramin. More and more, Thae accepted and relied upon magicka; this eventually allowed for the creation of a wizardly institution sanctioned by the Empire: the famed Imperial Adepts.

Much of the old Thaecian distrust for magic resurfaced in the earliest years of the Empire. Emperor Coriolanus had something like 2,000 magical scrolls destroyed in just one year alone. Both the Emperors and the Legion feared the power of alien wizards, and not without reason. In the reactionary spirit of the early Empire, all sorcerers were frequently driven from Thae, accused of harming the land or Emperor with their evil spells. The most famous example was probably the expulsion of Nestorides and all his apprentices by Emperor Marius. Nocturnal ceremonies to invoke the infernal deities, the making of wax images and the tying of knots to cause pain, death, or sexual impotence, and of course the manufacture of poisons (employed to speed up the supernatural processes) were offenses punished by crucifixion or being thrown to wild beasts.

The Emperors almost always reserved the right to exclude their own personal sorcerers from expulsion or persecution. Even Coriolanus was known to consult astrologers. As the Empire grew older and even more powerful, its influence extended across half the known world—which included the sorcery-steeped east. A series of inconclusive wars with Xarsh had demonstrated the sorcerous power of the Magi. Slaves from other lands, in particular those brought from the wilderness of Aramin and Vathar had already brought a considerable body of magic learning into the Republic, but the annexation of several eastern kingdoms introduced into Thae numerous mystery cults, the art of astrology, and new and exotic magical traditions.

It was the conquest of Pyrrha, however, which marked the single most significant shift in Thaecian wizardry. Pyrrha the old, with its nighted pyramids and sphinxes, was an ancient land that boasted the earliest recorded use of magicka by Men. Centuries before the rise of Tarquinus, the sorcerers of Pyrrha were indisputably the most powerful wizards on Andurin. But by the time of the conquest, the pharaohs were all dead, and the glories of ancient Pyrrha had faded; it had not produced a truly great mage for centuries.

Nonetheless, Pyrrha proved a seemingly inexhaustible storehouse of magicka; knowledge of sorcery and sorcerers themselves flooded the Empire. The old and cosmopolitan city of Alexandretta was a crossroads of eastern and western magic traditions, and was soon established as the center of sorcery in Thaecia. Pyrrhic books on magicka (both genuine and fraudulent) were quickly translated and made readily available to eager readers. Magicka soon became a fashionable, if nervy, pastime for many citizens.

At the height of its power the Thaecian Empire enjoyed an unprecedented level of prosperity—which had its downside. Despite the incessant warnings from the priestly class, traditional Thaecian values of duty and reverence lapsed in favor of new and exotic ways. As the aristocratic families of Thae decayed, the Imperial court became more and more decadent. The mad emperor Jurianus tolerated a wife who openly practiced sorcery, among other vices. Such was the folly that provoked his assassination.

(to be continued)

“Histories”, Part 2

The Tarquinians of antiquity were renowned for their command of magics. Legend has it that a Tarquinian farmer was plowing his fields one day when a tall man miraculously arose out of the ground from one of the furrows. This man then proceeded to teach the farmer the very first wizard spells. The Tarquinian wizards assembled an early demonology, and were said to be able to call up spirits and bind them to service. Tarquinian wizards were famed for their use of familiars. Tarquinian wizards were also good at divination. They could foretell the future from examining animal entrails (haruspicy) or observing lightning strikes. In fact, divination in general was sometimes described as “the Tarquinian Art.”

The early Thaecians, in contrast, had little aptitude for and almost no tradition of wizardry. They distrusted and hated the Art and all its practitioners. These people were extremely religious by nature, and like other Men of their time, relied on priests, druids and shamans exclusively for any magicka. Their antipathy toward magicka is reflected in an ancient Thaecian term, veneficium, which had two meanings; first, use of the magical arts, especially sorcery employed to harmful ends; and second, the act of poisoning.

* * *

From the beginning of its history, Thae was ruled by the distant Tarquinian kings. While the Tarquinians were not particularly repressive, they naturally had poor reputations because of their fondness for sorcery. When Thae finally gained its independence, many of the Tarquinian magicians were killed or driven off.

After the founding of the Republic [in what is now northeastern Naranduil], Thae underwent a dramatic period of political expansion within the ancient world. As Thaecian power and imperialism grew, many foreign influences were brought into the region—including foreign sorcery. Most free wizards in the Republic maintained low profiles. Magicka and its practices was a punishable offense and still viewed unfavorably by more conservative citizens. Under the laws of the Republic, necromancy was occasionally practiced in secret, but it had no place in the religious life and was subject to severe legal penalties.

Many Thaecian citizens slowly acquired a taste for sorcery, and would pay handsomely for new and exotic trinkets or exciting magic spectacles. It became rather fashionable among the aristocratic classes to have a slave who knew some amusing or helpful magic. During the Republic, most wizards were foreign-born and of low station. Few Thaecian citizens actually performed magicka themselves. Free wizards were presumed to have had some foreign or Tarquinian blood in their veins. Female wizards were rare and especially hated. There were nonetheless some powerful witches in those days, perhaps most notably Veranis of Nura.

(to be continued)

Humble Origins

There are many variations of pasta puttanesca. The name puttanesca is derived from the Italian puttane or “whore”. According to one story, the name purportedly comes from the fact that the intense fragrance of this sauce was like a siren’s call to the men who visited such “ladies of pleasure.”

Most varieties of puttanesca come from Naples. However, uncooked versions exist and typically hail from Tuscany. The recipe below features crushed canned tomatoes. Colavita is a good brand if you can’t get Pomi vacuum-packed. Traditionally, the sauce is served with pasta lengua (long cut pasta such as spaghetti or bucatini). I didn’t have any on hand so used penne rigate instead.

Penne alla puttanesca

4 cloves garlic, minced
extra-virgin olive oil
anchovies
red pepper flakes, to taste
Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
capers, drained
crushed tomatoes
chopped Italian parsley

Saute garlic in olive oil until it takes a bit of color, about 2 minutes. Add anchovies and stir until the anchovies disintegrate. Add red pepper flakes, to taste. Add olives, capers and crushed tomatoes. Stir and reduce heat. Cook for about 15 minutes on medium-low heat, stirring frequently or until sauce reduces and thickens slightly. Fold in a handful of chopped Italian parsley at the last minute.

Add cooked and drained pasta to saute pan; toss. Serve immediately. You don’t need to check seasoning (or if you do, then do so sparingly). The sauce should be flavorful enough on its own without the need for added salt.

Cheese is superfluous. That being said, I wouldn’t be surprised if a Philistine added a little, you know, to “kick it up a notch”.

“Histories”, Part 1

Wherein an accounting of the origin of magicka on Andurin is given so that it will not be forgotten…

According to legend, the drakes were the first race in Andurin. They slept in cold caverns, swam in still oceans, and flew in dark skies long before the advent of Men. It is natural, therefore, to conclude that drakes were the first wizards in Andurin; their considerable talent for magic is well known. Drakkari commonspeech is extremely close to the Elder Tongue. It is said that the drakes overheard the gods as they formed and shaped all of creation. This explains in part why drakes and their ilk are so adept at wizardry. The Elder Tongue binds all mortal creatures to speak true—except for the drakes. They alone have the cunning to lie in the True Speech…or so the legends say.

The Seelie Court (who are also known as the Sidhe and the Fae) also have great aptitude for the Elder Tongue. They were probably the second wizards in Andurin. Only the drakes know what the land was like before the coming of the Ffolk. A Fae presence predates human existence in what is now Damrosil (in southwestern Telluria), in Arator and in Silmataurea by several dozen millennia. It is said that in the ancient times, the fairies once lived openly, visible to all.

Fae love magicka and have an uncanny affinity for enchantments. They take great delight in unusual or elegantly-wrought spells and artifacts. The most powerful magical items now in Andurin were undoubtedly wrought by the Fae in ages past—those that survived the Sundering in any event. Their enchanted swords are still prized above all others, save for the Twelve. It is said that the fabulous blade of King Falconedge, for instance, was made by an ancient prince of the Seelie Court, and given to him by a Ffolk maiden.

The Fae are also masters of illusion. Faerie glamour, it is said, is almost impossible for mortals—even magicians—to recognize. There are countless tales of the Fae using their glamour to disguise themselves or trick hapless mortals.

* * *

Long ago, before the birth of the elves, it is said that the Lords of Faerie withdrew from Andurin and the visible world. Why they left and just where they went is unclear. There are many stories of the Fae sailing into the west, or withdrawing deep into the woods and far beneath the ancient hills. The realm of Faerie is now largely inaccessable to mortal men, and the Fae only rarely venture forth. Those mortals who have claimed to visted this place tell fantastic tales of a strange land where time has no meaning and of a realm filled with unending wonders.

A governor from Brynnel named Halius once attempted to invade a Faerie wood. Each time his troops entered the trees, they would march barely a bow-shot before finding themselves back where they started from. Few men since have repeated the governor’s folly.

Of the Fae, only the lesser faeries have remained behind in the mortal world, and it is said that their time here is waning. The faeries here are wilder and are more neutral than their nobler cousins. In addition, they are extremely reticent, and have rarely had direct contact with people. They use their magic to dazzle and frighten all those with whom they are unfamiliar. The great faery queen Titania and her court kept the ebon drake Noxostratos at bay for centuries, and was later feared by Fhaardi barbarian raiders who ventured into what is now northwestern Damrosil.

* * *

It is not clear who had dwelt in southwestern Telluria before the coming of Men, nor how long they had been there. Some evidence remains of a primitive pre-human society. A dark and furtive race built the prehistoric dolmens, cairns, barrows, and stones which still dot the landscape. Contrary to popular belief, druids did not build these things—though they did venerate these places. It is not known what magics these pre-human races used, if any. Little is known of them as they seem to have been fairly primitive. Some have suggested a great human kingdom existed alongside the Fae, although there is little evidence to support this.

Traditionally, Men had little experience with wizardly magic; they relied exclusively on priests and shamans for all sorcery. The rare wizards that were encountered were greatly feared and of considerable power. In general, though, wizardly magicka was the domain of non-humans, such as the dread hags which prowled the Barren Wastes and the depths of the Shadowed Wood in eastern Silmataurea. The enchantments of the Sidhe were held in awe and often feared by others—although relations between the Fae and mortal races, particularly those of Men were not always hostile. Sometimes, a Sidhe and a human would mate. Those few born with a talent for magicka usually had some faerie blood in their veins.

(to be continued)