…Worth A Thousand Words

Sun-dried tomato and chardonnay pork sausage from Flying Pigs Farm, served with roasted heirloom fingerling potatoes and shallots

Sunday dinner. Now I know why I rarely make congee. It’s because I end up with too much food.

“Full of fire and music”

“I shall never understand the weird process by which a body with a voice suddenly fancies itself as a mind. Just when exactly does an actress decide they’re HER words she’s speaking and HER thoughts she’s expressing?”

“And you, I take it, are the Paderewski who plays his concerto on me, the piano?”

“Margo Channing is a star of the theater. She made her stage debut at the age of four in “Midsummer Night’s Dream,” playing a fairy. She entered, quite unexpectedly, stark naked. She has been a star ever since.”

And best of all, the entire movie is up on Youtube. 

“We’re a knowledgeable family”

“Let’s hope he’s all grown up like his father. Simon pure and Simon simple…good, good Louis. If I had managed sons for him instead of all those little girls, I’d still be stuck with being Queen of France, and we should not have known each other. Such, my angels, is the role of sex in history.”

“I know. You know I know. I know you know I know. We know Henry knows, and Henry knows we know it. We’re a knowledgeable family.”

“Hm…well that’s how deals are made. We’ve got him if we want him. He’ll sell us all, you know, but only if he thinks we think he won’t.”

Spent tonight watching The Lion in Winter. Thanks to Father Tony for the idea.

Mix and Match

Chicken congee.

Toppings include: chopped scallions, minced cilantro, stir-fried Chinese pork sausage with preserved salted black beans and chili peppers, sesame oil, tamari, shredded roast chicken, pickled ginger, fresh kimchi.

Basic congee recipe consists of one part rice to ten parts water and/or stock (see recipe below). I didn’t have enough spare chicken parts to make more than one quart of stock, so I boosted things with one can of chicken broth and two cups of water. Bring to a boil for 3-4 minutes, then lower heat to ultra-low and cook, partially covered for 60 to 90 minutes or until congee reaches the consistency of thick oatmeal. Stir occasionally. If liquid reduces, add more water or stock. When congee is done, ladle into bowls, garnish with choice of toppings and serve immediately. Tonight I came home late and didn’t feel like eating dinner at 10 pm so I cut down the cooking time by an hour. Oops. Tastes great though, but then I’m cooking for myself, not for an audience.

Quick Asian chicken stock: one roast chicken carcass (wings, bones, neck), six cups of water, several large pieces of sliced ginger, crushed garlic cloves and two pieces of star anise. Boil for five minutes, lower heat then simmer uncovered for four to five hours. Skim occasionally to remove impurities as the stock simmers. Let cool, then strain. Refrigerate overnight to let flavors meld.

Pickled ginger: Thinly slice or shred one large piece of ginger. Macerate in 6-7 T. rice wine vinegar with a pinch of salt for 30 minutes. Use as desired.

The Chinese pork sausage side dish was one link of La Chang pork sausage, diced; 2 T. salted preserved black beans; 1 minced chili pepper; and 1 minced clove garlic stir-fried in some peanut oil with a little mushroom soy sauce.

“Patience”, Part 11

In its place was a humid, reeking swamp, and the pitch black darkness of a night with no stars or moon. He could hear the thrumming, rolling and receding sounds of the distant surf and the shrill shrieks of birds calling to each other above the tangled canopy. There were crickets and crabs and animals such as he hadn’t ever glimpsed before, and all of them moved like death gray silhouettes through an impenetrably dense fog.

There was an Argonian male crouched by a pool of discolored water, holding a spear in one scaly hand. He was hunting.

Memories came flooding back to him so swiftly that he jolted out of that blissful place between wakefulness and sleep. Only then did he realize that he couldn’t move. His thin wrists were bound, as were his ankles. Something leathery was thrust into his mouth to keep him from crying out. His head was bent back at an awkward angle. Panic filled him, and he thrashed violently on the filthy floor of the swamp. His movements startled the lizard man. The creature turned his head sharply in ‘Rilo’s direction, then rushed over to him in equal panic to try and still him.

“Stop!” he pleaded in a reptilian, hissing voice, catching the back of ‘Rilo’s head before he gashed it open on a jagged rock. “Stop, you must stop, you must stop!”

‘Rilo just uttered as much of a scream as he could through his leather bindings, twisting in terror to get his gray, bared throat out of range of his captor’s intimidating, pronged fangs. He couldn’t help it—he started crying, and that caused the Argonian to leap back and begin pacing, worrying his nails with his teeth.

“I cannot do this, I cannot do this, it won’t stop crying, Honor-That-She-Seeks never told me that they cried, why does it cry, why does it cry, why does it—”

‘Rilo tilted his head at just the right angle to get the leather gag out of his mouth. He gasped loudly, sucked in a breath of air that tasted of the swamp, then screamed out:

“Gold Man, help me!”

The Argonian took a staggered step, quivered, then knelt beside ‘Rilo with a confused expression on his face. ‘Rilo shied away from him, shaking in fright and praying for his life. “Here…” the creature began shakily, reaching out for the bindings on ‘Rilo’s wrists. “Here, now…no more screams, and I take them off, yes?” He looked hopeful. “Yes?”

“Why did you take me!” ‘Rilo shouted back, mindless of the request. He thought back to Shae, floating away from him down the Meros. He flinched. Tears stung his eyes. Stupid Shae… stupid…

“Because I must!” the creature insisted, his dismay evident. Again, he reached for the bindings, and without hesitation, ‘Rilo moved away. “I must take you, I must, Vermillio does not understand—”

“Don’t talk about my father!” the boy shouted back in outrage. His fists clenched. “You don’t know anything about my papa!”

“No, sir, no!” the Argonian persisted, and this time when he reached for ‘Rilo’s wrists, he grasped them firmly, and the boy could not twist away. His expression was pleading. “Silent-Shadow does not speak of Vermillio’s papa—Silent-Shadow speaks of you! You do not understand!”

‘Rilo’s expression was blank and without comprehension. He stared up at the scaled, reptilian face, and felt nothing but terrified wonder, and the vain wish to reach out and strike his captor with something sharp. Then, still crying silent tears, he begged, weeping, “What don’t I understand?”

Silent-Shadow took a steadying breath and removed his short sword from his hip; it was crusted with something, and ‘Rilo grew sick with nausea as he recognized it. The Argonian brought the blade to the bindings on ‘Rilo’s wrists and begin to saw through, speaking shakily as he did so. “You must go to Honor-That-She-Seeks, and he will explain. Silent-Shadow cannot explain. Silent-Shadow does not know, but he understands.”

(to be continued)

* * *

(This fanfic is a work in progress and is based on source material found in the Elder Scrolls games.)

Click here to view Part 1.

Weekend Dilemma

Suppose you met someone on Manhunt who sparked a connection. The sex was off-the-charts amazing. You make a commitment to see each other again. For one reason or another, you lose track of each other until by chance he calls you out of the blue two months later. You resolve to get together the next time you’re free.

He comes over late one evening. He looks as lovely as ever. You have a moment of self-doubt and wonder just what he sees in you that makes this meeting possible. Then, while shedding his clothes, he nonchalantly lays a dime bag of crystal on your dresser.

What happens next in this story?

* * *

I didn’t get to the Greenmarket until mid-afternoon. The square was packed with tourists, students from NYU and the usual crowd of foodies shopping. Wednesday and Saturday are prime market days at Union Square. Yesterday was no exception.

We’re at the tail end of winter. Jones Dairy was all out of fromage blanc. Feta cheese looked none too appealing so a tub of fresh ricotta figured in the mix. Lots of winter root vegetables: heirloom potatoes, parsnips, jerusalem artichokes, salsify, burdock and onions. The thought of getting a poussin lasted for all of two seconds. That being said, a pot of coq au vin sounds like it would be perfect this week. I’m kicking myself for not having bought a stewing chicken.

* * *

Menu for the week is subject to change:

Monday — Congee, made with homemade chicken stock from last week’s dinner. Possible toppings: shredded chicken, pickled ginger, fresh kimchi from Hawthorne Valley Farm, minced scallions, stir-fried pork with chile peppers and salted black bean sauce, sesame oil, cilantro. (I’m really looking forward to this.)

Tuesday — leftovers

Wednesday — Broiled pork sausages, roasted potatoes and shallots

Thursday — leftovers

Friday — ??? Pasta something most likely. I never did end up cooking what SK suggested last time around. I shall have to rectify that soon.

Today’s dinner takes 30 minutes to prepare from start to finish. My mother thinks this dish exemplifies the idea of “gourmet cuisine”. (Yes, we’re talking. Surprised? That’ll be the subject of another post.) On the other hand, this is relatively simple for me.

* * *

Tagliatelle with leeks and cream

extra-virgin olive oil
leeks, cleaned and sliced thinly
kosher salt, to taste
cracked black pepper, to taste
heavy cream
pinch of grated nutmeg
Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
tagliatelle

Saute leeks in olive oil until translucent over medium heat, about 2-3 minutes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, and a splash of water. Braise, covered, for 10-15 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour cream into a small saucepan. Keep warm over low heat. Add nutmeg to infuse cream.

Prepare pasta. When done, drain and transfer to pan with leeks. Add the cream and toss over low heat for 1 minute. Sprinkle with grated cheese, reserving the rest to pass at the table. Serve immediately.

Menu Changes

I’ve decided to plow through the leftovers in the fridge.  There’s a roast chicken carcass with my name on it.  I figure I’ll do pasta with leeks and cream for dinner Saturday.  Plus I’ll have a better idea of what’s good at the market tomorrow morning.

It being the middle of March, ramps should be in by now, and maybe some morels.

More later.

La Signora Hazan

Gnocchi con sugo di pomodoro

Recipe courtesy of Marcella Hazan:

2 cups canned tomatoes*
1 onion, cut in half
5 T. unsalted butter
kosher salt, to taste

Combine tomato, butter and onion in a medium saucepan. Add a pinch of salt.

Cook over an ultra-low heat setting, uncovered for 45 minutes to one hour, or until droplets of fat separate freely from the tomato. Check seasoning and stir from time to time.

Discard the onion. As a final step, you can pass the sauce through a food mill.

Note: I used a box of Pomi chopped tomatoes. Obviously fresh is better but it’s difficult to get really good quality tomatoes in the middle of March. When you make this sauce, the only thing you’ll find yourself wishing is that you made double the quantity. It’s amazing.

James Joyce Says Hello

Bonus points to whomever gets the reference in the title of this post. No googling allowed.

Roast chicken; green beans and potatoes, Istrian style

Faglione e patate alla Istriana

fingerling potatoes, sliced on a bias
green beans or wax beans, trimmed
extra-virgin olive oil
7-8 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
kosher salt, to taste
cracked black pepper, to taste
Italian parsley, chopped

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook potatoes until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Ladle into a bowl with a slotted spoon; set aside and let cool. Add beans and a pinch of salt. Cook until tender, 5-6 minutes. Drain.

Saute garlic in olive oil over medium heat until it begins to color but not before it browns. Add potatoes and beans. Check seasoning. Continue to saute, stirring frequently or until potatoes turn golden brown. Check seasoning once more, garnish with chopped Italian parsley, and serve immediately.

Cooking 101

In a post below, Tater mentioned that

“There comes a point where intuition takes over, and food is made better.”

I agree with one caveat: that you need to have a grasp of the basics in order to have an understanding of what culinary intuition means. For most people, the phrase, “tastes good” works — except it doesn’t.

The problem is that it’s so subjective. There are certain flavor combinations that work well together, like for instance, garlic with tomato and basil, or peanut butter and chocolate. Or capers, olives and anchovies. Or foie gras and Sauternes. Or pork chops and applesauce. Recognition comes with experience that only time can provide.

Then you have combinations that shouldn’t work or when you see them on paper, sound completely outlandish. Like pork belly and miso butterscotch. (See Tailor.) Or milk skin, hazelnut oil and black truffles. (See El Bulli.) Or broccoli cooked sous vide and paired with fish roe, crispy bread and grapefruit. (See Alinea.) You can bet however that Messrs. Mason, Adria and Achatz are at the top of their game. We’re mere mortals by comparison.

If someone were starting out learning how to cook, I would exhort them to start small. Don’t take on more than you can handle. Explore what “tastes good” really means. Once you’ve gained some experience, you’ll be ready to go out into the wide world in front of you. Until then, please for the love of god don’t think that Swedish meatballs are made by dumping a bottle of Tabasco into a pot full of grape jelly and ground pork as I had the misfortune of experiencing a few years ago.

Life is short. Why waste it on bad food?

Stewed midnight black beans with bacon and mirepoix, served over steamed rice

dried beans [1]
bacon
celery, chopped [2]
onion, diced
carrot, peeled and diced
red wine
water
kosher salt, to taste
cracked black pepper, to taste

Soak beans in cold water for 4 hours or overnight. Alternately, place in a pot with cold water to cover by 3″. Bring to a boil, cover and remove from heat. Let stand for about an hour. Drain and rinse.

Place in a pot with water to cover by 3″. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer for about an hour. Drain.

Fry bacon until crisp. Drain off most of the fat, reserving 3-4 T. drippings. Saute onion in drippings or until onion takes on a bit of color. Add carrots, celery and celery leaves. Saute for 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently. Deglaze with red wine. Add beans and 1/4 cup water. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes, then reduce heat and cook for 25-30 minutes or until beans are tender. If the liquid reduces, add more water. Check seasoning. Fold in chopped cilantro and serve immediately.

Notes:

1. I used midnight black beans from Rancho Gordo. Highly recommended. Feel free to use any type of dried beans however.

2. Consider using some celery leaves. They lend an additional herbaceous note to the finished dish.

* * *

Glazed Chioggia beets with ginger-lemon sauce

Chioggia beets
unsalted butter
juice of half a lemon
1/2 t. ginger marmalade
chives, minced

Preheat oven to 375 F. Place beets in a glass baking dish, along with 1/4 cup water. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until beets are easily pierced with a fork. Set aside. When cool enough to handle, peel, trim and quarter beets.

Melt butter over medium heat. Add beets, toss to coat. Add lemon juice and ginger marmalade. Stir or until beets are lightly coated with the glaze. Sprinkle with chopped chives and serve immediately.

Thanks to Kusala for the idea.