When Thin is In

Minestra di capelli d’angelo, asparagi e spinaci — Angel hair, asparagus and spinach soup

Angel hair pasta is a long, thin noodle with a round shape. It is also known as capellini or capelli d’angelo. This extremely fine pasta is excellent with light, delicate sauces as well as seasonal fresh vegetables or in soup. Several traditional Italian recipes call for angel hair pasta, and the pasta is readily available in most supermarkets. You can also make it by hand, although producing pasta of adequate thinness requires time and patience.

4 cups water, chicken stock or vegetable stock
1/2 lb. asparagus, trimmed and sliced on a bias
1/2 lb. spinach
1 lb. angel hair pasta
unsalted butter
1 egg, lightly beaten
kosher salt
white pepper
onion chives
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring water or stock to a gentle simmer in a large pot. Add pasta and cook until pasta is al dente — about three minutes if using fresh pasta, or six to eight minutes if using dried. Turn heat down to low.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Briefly sauté asparagus and spinach until vegetables take on a bit of color, about two to three minutes. Check seasoning. When pasta is done, add vegetables and pan drippings. Simmer for an additional five minutes to let flavors blend.

Stir in 1 lightly beaten egg. Check seasoning. Serve immediately, passing grated cheese and herbs at the table.

Memorial Dinner

Caption titles are hard.

No complicated cooking after this weekend’s “adventure”. I had planned on writing something about the evolution of this blog, in conjunction with making polpetti for dinner, but that can wait for a little while longer.

Gambas al ajillo (shrimp with garlic), toast points, roasted wild asparagus

This dish is an exercise in minimalism. Be sure to serve with plenty of bread so you can mop up the tasty sauce.

3/4 lb. large shrimp
kosher salt
extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
pinch of red pepper flakes
chopped parsley

Sprinkle the shrimp with salt. Toss and let sit for 10 minutes.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a skillet. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to color, about one minute. Turn the heat up to medium-high, and add the shrimp. Cook, stirring, until the shrimp turn pink and are cooked through, two to three minutes. Remove from heat, sprinkle with parsley and serve.

Ramps and Ferns

By next week, ramps season will be gone until next spring. Get them while you can.

Fiddlehead ferns run for about two weeks in most locales. The season usually begins in early April in the South until mid to late July in Canada. Some people think they taste like pond scum. For me, however, they remind me of asparagus. They have a delicateness that’s accentuated when briefly sautéed in butter.

Wild asparagus and ramps frittatta, fiddlehead ferns sautéed in butter

Postcards from the Shire

This blog will have its three year anniversary in a little over six weeks so I thought I’d pull some of my favorite food photography in the intervening period. You can browse all of these pictures and many more on my Flickr account on right-hand side of your screen.

Dinner tonight is a surprise. Talk to y’all later.

Fried clam bellies and oysters, tartar sauce (Tides)

Seared hamachi, black radish, celery, Granny Smith apple (Hearth)

Heirloom tomatoes

Roast scallops, grapefruit and asparagus salad (Little Owl)

Gnocchi con sugo di pomodoro

‘Deconstructed’ German potato salad

Chiaogga beets

Seared scallop, parsnip puree, hen of the woods mushrooms, caviar viniagrette (Hearth)

Trio of gelati (Otto)

Asparagus, coconut, black mustard seeds, kokum (Tabla)

Grilled lambchops (Tabla)

Frying hushpuppies (2008 BABBQBP)

Spareribs closeup (2008 BABBQBP)

Pastrami closeup (Katz’s)

Gnocchi 1

Cooking is a dying art in America.

We have become so preoccupied with kitchen shortcuts and timesavers that people will eschew real cooking in favor of fast food and unhealthy eating. And that’s a tragedy. I’m not sure how we can combat this decline except through education, in the hopes that the pendulum will reverse itself.

Last night’s dinner took an hour to prepare. The majority of the prep time involved making the gnocchi from scratch. True, I could have gone with store-bought but that would have sacrificed taste and quality control at the price of convenience. That’s a trade-off I’m not willing to undergo. But even if I weren’t concerned about things like taste, aesthetics and presentation, I could have opted for dried pasta or maybe takeout, or even a microwave TV dinner or fast food at the local McDonald’s. But there are certain values that I hold on to, some of which form the foundation of slow food.

When I was growing up, my mom worked full-time in addition to raising me by herself. Somehow she found the time to cook. Most nights we’d have something she made over the weekend. Sometimes she cooked something from scratch once she got home. I don’t recall a time when we ever had fast food for dinner. If that did happen, it must be buried in the recesses of my memory.

Now I recognize that if I were managing a household or if I were married with a kid, that time would be an issue, and that there would be all sorts of additional demands such that taking an hour for dinner might be a luxury. However, that’s not necessarily an excuse for fast food values….or is it? What do you think?

Ricotta gnocchi with asparagus and wild mushrooms

Suzanne Goin’s recipe for ricotta gnocchi is here. Be sure to drain the ricotta before making the gnocchi, preferably overnight. You can place it in a strainer or colander or double-wrap it in cheesecloth. Suspend over a bowl and let it drain for 8 to 24 hours, refrigerated. Cheesecloth is more efficient as it absorbs moisture from the ricotta while gravity does the rest of the work.

The sauce is minimalist — sauté slivered asparagus and mushrooms in melted unsalted butter with a touch of white wine. Salt and pepper to taste at the end. Stir in some chopped marjoram and chives, or your own mix of fresh herbs. Once the gnocchi are cooked, toss with the vegetables and serve immediately. Cheese is superfluous as that would overwhelm the delicate gnocchi.

May Flowers

Spring garden salad
Roasted fingerling potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, with fiddlehead ferns, wild asparagus, ramps, nasturtium flowers and a poached egg

You can leave out the root vegetables if you prefer. I had a bunch of vegetables in the crisper from a few weeks ago that needed to be used. What better than a salad for brunch?

fingerling potatoes (1)
Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced on a bias
olive oil
kosher salt, to taste
freshly milled black pepper, to taste
unsalted butter
8 stalks wild asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1/2″ lengths (2)
1 bunch ramps, trimmed and sliced (separate stalks and leaves)
fiddlehead ferns, cleaned
1 egg, poached
nasturtium flowers
fresh thyme, chopped
onion chives, minced

Combine fingerlings and Jerusalem artichokes in a roasting pan. Sprinkle with a pinch of kosher salt and drizzle 2 T. olive oil. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes at 350 F or until vegetables are golden brown. Stir in a handful of thyme and chives. Set aside.

Boil fiddlehead ferns in 2 cups salted water for 5 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain. Immediately shock the ferns in ice water to halt the cooking process. Set aside.

Melt 1 T. unsalted butter in a large skillet. Add ramp stalks and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes over low heat or until stalks take on a bit of color. Add asparagus, ramp leaves and fiddlehead ferns. Sauté for 5 to 8 more minutes, stirring frequently. You can add an additional 1 T. unsalted butter if you wish, for additional richness. Check seasoning.

To assemble: Spoon potatoes onto a salad plate or wide-rimmed soup bowl. Place 2 generous tablespoons of the vegetables amidst the potatoes. Nestle a poached egg atop everything. Sprinkle with chopped herbs, salt and pepper. Garnish with a nasturtium flower, and serve immediately.

(1) — Normally I leave the fingerlings unpeeled but if you have time, peeling them makes for a more aesthetic presentation.

(2) — These are sweeter and milder than regular asparagus. In addition, the stalks are thinner and thus require shorter cooking times. Substitute regular asparagus if unavailable.

Recession Specials 2

Clockwise from right: Linguine with anchovies, breadcrumbs and mint; asparagus in the style of Parma

The neat thing about Italian food [and I mean real Italian as opposed to Italian-American] is that it’s possible to eat well and cheap. Tonight’s dinner has a total food cost of about $5: olive oil, anchovies, breadcrumbs (from 2 thick slices sourdough bread), parsley, mint, asparagus, butter, Parmesan. Oh, and it took about 20 minutes to make.

Linguine with anchovies, breadcrumbs and mint

linguine
4 T. extra-virgin olive oil
4 fat garlic cloves, chopped
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
3 anchovy fillets
kosher salt, to taste
freshly milled black pepper, to taste
Italian parsley, chopped
mint leaves, chopped

Cook linguine; drain.

As the pasta cooks, make the sauce. Heat oil in a large skillet. Add the garlic, breadcrumbs and anchovies, stirring until the crumbs begin to change color. When the pasta is done, add to the pan along with 1 or 2 T. pasta cooking water. Toss over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Check seasoning. Stir in parsley and mint. Serve immediately.

Asparagus, in the style of Parma

Cook asparagus in 1″ simmering water in a saucepan for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and shock immediately in ice water to halt the cooking process. Place in a Pyrex or oven-proof baking dish. Dot with 1 T. unsalted butter cut into cubes. Scatter generously with freshly grated Parmesan chese, then bake in a preheated 400 F oven for 5 to 8 minutes or until cheese has melted. Remove from oven and serve immediately.

The Education of Taste

Linguine primavera

As a general rule, I don’t like cream sauces because I feel they mask flavor. I want to be able to taste what I’m eating. Don’t get me wrong — cream sauces have a place in my repertoire. It’s just that when I cook, I prefer to be as minimalist as possible so that I can experience the most of what my ingredients have to offer.

4 T. extra-virgin olive oil
1 bunch ramps, cleaned, trimmed and chopped (separate stalks and leaves)
2 t. grated lemon zest
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 T. fresh tarragon, finely chopped
1 lb. asparagus, trimmed and chopped
1/2 cup fresh peas, shelled
1 lb. linguine
3 T. pine nuts, toasted
2 T. Italian parsley, chopped
2 T. onion chives, minced
freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cook pasta. Drain, reserving a ladleful of pasta cooking water. Set aside.

Meanwhile, heat 2 T. olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add ramp stalks, lemon zest, tarragon and a pinch of salt and cook slowly, stirring occasionally.

Prepare asparagus and peas in a separate pot — bring water to a roiling boil, add a pinch of salt and the vegetables; cook for 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat; drain. Add to ramps mixture and continue cooking. Add ramp leaves and cook for an additional minute. Stir.

Add cooked linguine to pan along with 1 or 2 tablespoons pasta cooking water. Raise heat and add the remaining olive oil, the pine nuts, parsley and chives. Check seasoning. Stir in a scant handful of grated cheese. Serve immediately, passing additional cheese at the table.

Spring in a Bowl

Warm asparagus salad with bacon and egg

I have to confess: this is my favorite time of the year. It’s seeing the leaves come out, flower buds slowly opening and the return of songbirds from the south. It’s the majesty of spring’s glory as the first green things appear at market. And thus the cycle begins anew.

1 bunch asparagus, trimmed
2 strips bacon, cut in pieces (1)
1/2 red onion, sliced thinly
1 egg
1 t. white wine vinegar
2 T. extra-virgin olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
lemon juice
chopped parsley or chives

Combine asparagus, olive oil and a pinch of salt in a Pyrex or glass baking dish. Toss. Roast at 350 F for 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside and cool slightly.

Bring 1/2 cup water to a gentle simmer in a small or medium saucepan. Add 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar. Gently crack an egg atop the surface of the water and poach for 1 to 2 minutes. Lift egg out with a slotted spoon.

Fry bacon until crisp. Add onion to pan, saute for 3 to 4 minutes or until onion has wilted and slightly caramelized. Remove from heat, add asparagus and a little lemon juice, to taste. Check seasoning. Toss.

To assemble, place the poached egg in a bowl, spoon asparagus-bacon mixture atop, and sprinkle some chopped parsley or chives. Serve immediately.

(1) I used bacon ends from Flying Pigs Farm but this works just as well with regular bacon from the supermarket. Remember to adjust salt accordingly prior to service.

Why I Hate Rachael Ray

I’ve finally figured out why I hate Rachael Ray. It’s not her usage of annoying catchphrases. It’s not her upbeat personality which borders on certifiable. It’s the notion that the less time you spend cooking, the better your sanity will be.

Rachael’s whole schtick is a complete meal in 30 minutes or less. Yes, that includes prep time. Forget braised short ribs in wine. Forget roast chicken with garlic and rosemary. Risotto milanese? Hah! Don’t bother with chicken and sausage gumbo. You could probably get away with half her recipes, sure, if you use convenience products and cut corners. Her version of clam chowder uses canned chicken stock and canned clams. What’s wrong with that, you ask? Over-reliance on canned goods means less quality control. There’s something to be said for cooking from scratch.

People will say, “well I don’t want to cook for three hours just to make dinner.” That’s fine; I’m not advocating that. 90% of the meals on this blog don’t require a significant time investment either, and of those that do, the oven does the work for you. Ultimately it boils down to your priorities. If you value food as sustenance, then this blog entry is probably not for you. If you care about what you eat and how its prepared, then you might want to consider that expedience is not necessarily a good thing.

Sucrine salad with roasted asparagus, Japanese turnips and poached egg

sucrine
asparagus
turnips
eggs
olive oil
white wine vinegar
kosher salt, to taste
cracked black pepper, to taste
chives

For the asparagus and turnips: Trim asparagus and turnips. Asparagus peelings can be saved for asparagus stock. If the turnips are young, they can be left unpeeled. Slice turnips into halves or quarters depending on size. Chop asparagus into 1/2″ length pieces; be sure to leave the tips whole. Toss with olive oil, kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes in a 350 F oven. Let cool and set vegetables aside.

For the salad: Poach eggs. Lift with slotted spoon and set aside when done. Tear sucrine into bite-sized pieces. If you can’t get sucrine, butter or Bibb lettuce are good substitutes.

For the dressing: Whisk together 3 T. olive oil from the roasting pan, a splash of white wine vinegar or lemon juice and 1 teaspoon chopped chives or parsley.

Assembly: Combine sucrine, asparagus and turnips. Dress the salad; toss to coat. Top each salad serving with a poached egg, add a sprinkle of salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Heirloom potato and turnip green soup, adapted from Deborah Madison’s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. Deborah’s version uses mustard greens and parsley; this is the same recipe except for the substitution of heirloom potatoes, turnip greens and lovage.